Hello, Can anyone tell me specific front hub used on the Amac? This is chassis number 002, and the previous owner remembers that it is off of a Fiat, but he
wasn't sure which model. International auto parts is probably a good source, but I still need to know which hubs to order. Also, how often should the
wheels be disassembled and repacked. rebuilt, or new bearing added? I only have 4 weekends on the car since purchase and the last event before purchase was the
run-offs, so I believe everything had been checked and freshened before that. Suggestions and thought appreciated. Wayne Hayden ROF Racing
Amac hubs
| Author | Comment | |||||||||||||||||||||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
 ROFracing |
Amac hubs |
Lead | ||||||||||||||||||||||
|
Registered User
Posts: 16 03/13/08 23:26:26 |
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
Bill Lomenick |
Amac hubs | #1 | ||||||||||||||||||||||
|
Registered User
Posts: 478 03/14/08 10:04:05 |
They should be TDC uprights and are sold by Fastforward. They come with a Fiat or VW bearing.
Bill Lomenick |
|||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
David Arken |
#2 | |||||||||||||||||||||||
|
Registered User
Posts: 604 03/14/08 10:57:59 |
I can never remember which Fiat (128 maybe) the hubs are but you can use the same one for front and rear, AMAC and Bob Fox know I'll ask them and get back
to you. International Auto Parts have the CV's, boots and wheel bearings. In all my years running an AMAC I have replaced 2 wheel bearings, have only
serviced a couple and used redline grease. I have broken about half a dozen Fiat CV's but mostly as the result of a crash or being hit by FM's. The
inner are VW CV's. if you need one in a hurry I'm sure one of us out here can send one as a loaner.
David |
|||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
farrout |
#3 | |||||||||||||||||||||||
|
Registered User
Posts: 70 03/14/08 14:17:50 |
I think the hubs are Fiat X19 (maybe the same as 128?). Mine has a 4x98mm bolt circle using 12x1.5mm studs. The front hubs are TDC from Fast Forward.
Being new to the AMAC, I am trying to develop an AMAC parts list, etc.
Craig Farr
1999 AMAC AM7 Madison, AL |
|||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
EOBrien |
Front Hub Info | #4 | ||||||||||||||||||||||
|
Registered User
Posts: 311 03/14/08 14:23:42 |
~Eric
'99 A-MAC AM6
Last Edited By: EOBrien 03/14/08 14:26:16.
Edited 1 time.
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
ted arken |
#5 | |||||||||||||||||||||||
|
Registered User
Posts: 2625 03/14/08 18:32:11 |
X/19
If you get the rear hub, you can use it in both the rear and front uprights with the addition of a large grade 8 bolt, hardened washer, and nylock nut to take the place of the CV joint. Note that you must scuff with sandpaper the snout of the hub (a lathe is easiest) so that it will easily fit inside the bearing as the hubs are normally a press fit, and doing so would possibly push out the inner race of the bearing if you're not careful. |
|||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
ROFracing |
#6 | |||||||||||||||||||||||
|
Registered User
Posts: 17 03/14/08 20:55:10 |
Thanks guys, I haven't broken one yet, but was trying to put together one front upright and one rear. I have plenty of wheel bearings, new X 1/9 outer
cv's, and I just replaced the inner CV's. Jim included a lot of parts with the car, but I had just been unable to determine what hub was in the front.
David's comments about not having to service them regularly is very comforting. I keep going over the car looking for wear, but even the brake pads
don't look like they have been used. Of course I only put 4 weekends and 5 races on the car last year. I replaced the inner cv's because they were
starting to feel loose, and I did pack them with the redline. Good stuff. I have used their oils in the transmission and diff of my old cars, and the cv grease
is the secret ingredient in making Miata bearing last. Thanks again to everyone, Wayne Hayden
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
G Man |
Fiat bearings in TDC Uprights | #7 | ||||||||||||||||||||||
|
Registered User
Posts: 5 03/15/08 22:32:10 |
At last - I can help! Just went through this on my car with TDC uprights. I found Fiat bearings for $36 each from Apple Motors in Denver (Thanks, Dave).
Don't know his source.
The cross-references I found include the following. Note - all the industrial bearing prices were $65 and up to $118, due to scarcity. Special order for all. SKF - BA2B 633313C (This was on the old bearings in my car) *#+ - 531910 561447 *#+ - 529891AB *#+ - 545312 SNR - GB10790S05 IRB - IR-8051 IRB - IR-8040 N.O - DAC30600337 DAC DAC306 40042 Timken - TM513116 FITS: 1979-1982 Fiat Strada - REAR 1986-1991 Yugo GV - FRONT AND REAR 1973-1978 Fiat 124 - Rear 1971-1979 Fiat 128 - FRONT AND REAR 1974-1978 Fiat X-1/9 - Front and Rear Many auto parts had the Timken bearing or reference, including Autozone for $47. It was special order for all of them. Some folks say the Timken bearings are not as good as the others. Hope this is helpful, G Man |
|||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
G Man |
#8 | |||||||||||||||||||||||
|
Registered User
Posts: 6 03/15/08 22:36:40 |
Just reread my post. Apparently the forum autoreplaced the bearing company's three-letter name with symbols. *#+. To get the correct name, think of the
British slang term for cigarette or take the L out of FLAG.
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
Dave Gomberg |
#9 | |||||||||||||||||||||||
|
Registered User
Posts: 926 03/15/08 23:44:19 |
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
Bevans6.s2racing |
Bearing ID/hub OD? | #10 | ||||||||||||||||||||||
|
Registered User
Posts: 4 03/16/08 07:45:54 |
I have a pair of TDC uprights but I don't know which bearings they have. Can you tell me what the bearing ID is on the Fiat hub setup?
When I install hubs into double row bearings I press the bearing (in the upright already) onto the hub rather than pressing the hub into the bearing. I think that doing it this way guarantees correct preload of the bearing rather than relying on drawing it all together with the through bolt/nut and no issues with separating the bearing. If I'm wrong in my thinking I'd appreciate advise. If I have VW bearings is there a VW hub to use, or just the Fast Forward fabricated ones? Brian |
|||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
ted arken |
#11 | |||||||||||||||||||||||
|
Registered User
Posts: 2626 03/16/08 14:13:29 |
Brian, I don't think how you press the parts together has any bearing (ha ha) on how they will come apart. As long as you support the backside bearing race
when assembling the parts you shouldn't have any problems. I agree that using a bolt won't necessarily seat the hub against the outer race. For
disassembly most likely that outer race will pop out of the bearing if the hub is tight. Thats why I sand the snout of the hub so that installing or removing
the hub from the bearing is less of a pita.
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
David Arken |
#12 | |||||||||||||||||||||||
|
Registered User
Posts: 605 03/16/08 18:55:19 |
BTW we do not press the bearing into the upright, we heat it in the oven to about 250-300deg and put the bearing in the freezer for a couple of hours, and it
just drops into the upright.
David |
|||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
ROFracing |
#13 | |||||||||||||||||||||||
|
Registered User
Posts: 18 03/16/08 19:58:55 |
Thanks David, Always interested in the short cuts. Why fight with pressing them when the laws of physics will work for you. We used to do something similar
with VW cranks. Heat the drive gear for the distributer and just drop it on and put in the snap ring. I am sure the brake deal is lack of use on my part. I am
still learning how much grip this car has with slicks. I will check the compound on the brakes and see which ones are on there. Jim included a bunch of sets of
brake pads. I have been busy trying to get the stock engine running properly and really haven't had time to start on building the spare uprights for the
corners. Nothing major, just nagging little things. We found out that the cams were degreed wrong. Who knew that with all the figuring and math involved that
you could come up with the correct answer, but the cams not be timed right. When he degreed them the first time he got 104 as the answer to the equation, but I
think he was probably 180 degrees off. Anyway we got it right and the guy at the shop showed me how to do it correctly and the engine runs fine now. I did have
to take the carbs apart to find the source of the flow of gasoline from the breather tubes. ( tiny piece of trash on the needle valve seat). Thanks again to
everyone for all the help, Wayne Hayden
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||
|
ted arken |
#14 | |||||||||||||||||||||||
|
Registered User
Posts: 2627 03/16/08 21:03:06 |
Also to remove the bearing heat up the upright, turn it over and lightly tap out with a large socket or similarly sized round chunk of material while
supporting the upright outside of the bearing cutout.
|
|||||||||||||||||||||||
|
|
||||||||||||||||||||||||
Add Reply
- 2008 Races
- IMSA Lites
- General Discussion
- Vintage: H Modified
- Getting Started
- Driving Techniques
- Aerodynamics
- Car Building
- Engine, Carburation, EFI, Oiling
- Rules Discussion
- Suspension, Tires, Wheels
- Other Technical Discussion
- For Sale: Cars
- For Sale: Engines & engine parts
- For Sale: Misc. Parts, Trailers, . . .
- Wanted: Cars & Parts
- Links, HOW TOs?, Reference info.
- Sold Items, (kept for reference)
- 2007 Races
- 2006 Races
- 2005 Races
- 2000 - 2004 Race Results (read only)
- Weight Debate
