synthetic or conventional oil?

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LRichard	synthetic or conventional oil?		Lead	[-]
Registered User Posts: 5 07/26/08 12:36:07	I recently talked to a couple of bike racers about oil recommendations for our 06 GSXR 1000 and they both suggested that conventional oil is a better choice than synthetic as far as avoiding clutch slip in the newer high horsepower engines. I had planned on using Redline per recommendation of a current builder, but now I'm wondering .....? In viewing previous posts it appears that almost all are using synthetics. I'm new to this class and have no experience running "wet" clutches - has this become an issue to be concerned with? Lyle
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Hasty Horn		#1	[url]	[-]
Registered User Posts: 1194 07/26/08 13:21:38	Only the very earliest synthetics caused problems with clutch plates (20 years, or more ago). I would stick with synthetics that are specifically designed (and say so) for motorcycle use, if you use a synthetic. The synthetics chief advantage is that it stays (for want of a better word) stable for longer than regular oil but since you will be changing oil fairly frequently the advantage of a synthetic is moot. Either way, oil specifically recommended by the manufacturer is always a safe bet. Hasty Horn
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Phoenix Race Works	Oils	#2	[url]	[-]
Registered User Posts: 9 07/26/08 16:20:04	LRichard, I agree with Hasty. I'd stick with synthetics (unless you're doing an engine break-in) as they are what all the manufacturers recommend. We have had excellent luck using Redline 40wt Racing Oil, Lucas 20w/50 Motorcycle Oil, and the Mobil 1 Racing 4T (10w/40). I like the thicker oils as when oil temps run high the pressures seem to be higher...especially at idle...where the pressures can dip to 5-6 pounds with the thinner oils. Never an issue with clutch slippage and (knock on wood) we haven't had an oiling related failure. FYI....We change our oil and filter after every single race weekend....probably don't need to....but $45 for an oil change is cheaper than several thousand for an engine. Matt Conrad Phoenix Race Works, LLC
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NASA racer		#3	[url]	[-]
Registered User Posts: 300 07/26/08 22:17:15	I've had engine oil analysis done for every fill on my motor. I use a 9 quart dry sump and the minimum interval necessary is about 6 running hours based on the "stuff" in the oil. The oil itself isn't the issue but after about that long, it gets "dirty" enough to change. Oil quantity has an impact here but instead of needlessly wasting oil, there's a scientific way to determine the condition of the oil and the wear of the motor and $22.50 is a lot cheaper than $45 (or in my case, closer to $90 of oil). Pete Fowler - 2000 Prosport chassis 090. Crago Racing 1400 Hayabusa
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LRichard	oils	#4	[url]	[-]
Registered User Posts: 6 07/30/08 07:55:28	Thanks for the input. I'm going with the original recommendation and try to find someone to do the oil analysis also - seems like a good idea Lyle
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