BRD has developed all new dry sump systems for gsxr 1000(through 08, 09+ coming soon), 06-07 zx-10r, and 08+ honda cbr 1000rr(as well as wet sump pan) 09+ r1
coming soon. these dual scavenge systems are developed to outperform current offerings and have done so both on the dyno and on the track. single scav
systems(as well as most others) lose horsepower on the dyno, where as this system has shown nearly 4hp gain on george deans dyno. that should take care of the
15lb gain that usually deters light weight minded drivers, not to mention the hp improvements in the corners that the dyno cant measure (simulated oil in the
clutch basket shows 15-25hp loss, thats just 1qt over site glass!) this system uses no oil lines between pump and pan so no messy lines to leak or break
causing fires. simply replace stock pan and bolt new pump in place of water pump(electric water pump can be bought with kit or you provide), and you are done,
pump o-rings to pan for scavenge (zx-10r available with lines also). the pump is the size of a baseball and outflows current systems on the market at the same
time! pump is o-ring sealed on all mating surfaces. pan on gsxr and zx10 come in around 1" at deepest point. all cnc machined billet aluminum to be light
weight, long lasting, and nice looking too. may offer small group buy discounts if there is enough interest. please contact jesse @ BRD urbanimports02@yahoo.com or eric at west race cars(click link to left) for info or to purchase. george has experience
with the system as well. pricing tbd soon, looking to get them in the $1800-$2400 range depending on model and quantity.
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new dry sump systems (new pics of gsxr system)
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 urbanimports |
new dry sump systems (new pics of gsxr system) |
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Registered User
Posts: 17 01/05/09 23:41:31 |
Last Edited By: urbanimports 03/11/09 20:58:33.
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urbanimports |
pics | #1 | ||
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Registered User
Posts: 18 01/06/09 01:43:26 |
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ruderacer |
#2 | |||
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Registered User
Posts: 4 01/30/09 20:23:34 |
jesse...nice clean set up do you have a pic of inside?
like the idea of plumbing relief valve into sump tank 2 get more oil out of case....good thinking brian reuter the ruderacer
Last Edited By: ruderacer 01/30/09 20:32:00.
Edited 2 times.
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urbanimports |
pics of the BRD gsxr dry sump system | #3 | ||
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Registered User
Posts: 24 03/11/09 14:01:48 |
the pressure relief valve is installed on the right side in the above pic behind the little plate that sticks out on the side. the plate is o-ringed to seal
the hole once the pressure relief valve is installed the bolt that holds it in also seals one of the port holes for the recirculation of relieved oil which is
plumbed back into the pickup for the pressure pump.
the mighty little pump is of the gerotor design as apposed to the clunky vw or harley gears that most others use. they are more efficient and one section of
this pump will outflow the stock gsxr pressure pump. plus the pump body is o-ringed for simple effective leak free design.
the pan measures just 1" thick to allow for low mounting of engine. no oil lines between pump and pan, just a simple clean o-ringed manifold to direct
oil from front left corner and rear right, covering left and right turns as well as acceleration and braking. both oil lines for scav out and pressure inlet
are -10.
the feed line for the pressure pump is located on the front and is protected by the filter. it can be run to drivers left as shown or passed under the
filter to drivers right, either way a rather short line unless the sump tank is behind the engine, in which the line still should be under 24" long. best
of all the oil fittings are o-ringed and bolted with 4 bolts, so no messy sealant, and no back-up wrench! this system was designed to outperform all others,
and reduce lines and messy installs, all while reducing the dreaded weight of a dry sump. the kit as pictured will retail for $1995, but will consider a group
by of 5 or more for $1800
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erickv |
#4 | |||
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Registered User
Posts: 25 03/11/09 22:05:51 |
I can attest to Jesse's dry sump designs. They are very well designed throughout and all parts are top notch quality. We use them on our Kawasaki, Honda
and Suzuki engines. Oil pressure is consistently high at all times - hard breaking, long sweepers, etc. Eric West Race Cars
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urbanimports |
#5 | |||
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Registered User
Posts: 34 04/11/09 11:58:13 |
Here is a dyno graph from the other night testing the BRD drysump system vs a wet sump system. I tried to keep the oil temperatures as close as possible for accurate data. You can see at this temperature the BRD system was about 5 Horsepower better than the wet sump set up. 
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 Tom Clayton |
#6 | |||
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Registered User
Posts: 2413 04/13/09 17:36:48 |
What oil level was used in wet sump part of the dyno run comparison?
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kmt63 |
#7 | |||
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Registered User
Posts: 65 04/13/09 18:50:53 |
middle of the sight glass.so if it was tested above the sight glass the power loss would have been much worse.they ran out of time to test the higher oil
level.this info can be found in the dry sump thread in the engine section.
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LDOGGYDIZZLE |
#8 | |||
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Registered User
Posts: 197 04/15/09 17:04:06 |
Just finished install last night and was able to snap some photos as promised with my Iphone, but they turned out surprisingly good.
Lawrence Loshak
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NASA racer |
#9 | |||
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Registered User
Posts: 450 04/15/09 19:41:32 |
Interesting, I see that oil tank position commonly on WF1s, on my old Radical, if you put anything of any size anywhere behind the radiator, it would overheat
because the airflow OUT of the radiator was badly disrupted. Doesn't happen with that radiator?
Pete Fowler
Stohr 01D chassis 017 |
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LDOGGYDIZZLE |
#10 | |||
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Registered User
Posts: 199 04/16/09 11:03:53 |
Havnt had a problem yet. But that interesting what you said about your old radical. But on practically every car out there an engine sits behind a radiator. If there is sufficent air psi on the inlet of the radiator and properly sealed, I cant see why it would be a problem. Also the water temp is usually always cooler than the oil temp.
Lawrence Loshak
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urbanimports |
#11 | |||
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Registered User
Posts: 42 08/17/09 09:55:55 |
the new BRD dry sump is now available. this new system has the dual scavenge pump in the pan, gear driven off the stock oil pump. no more electric water pump,
and it takes 5 minutes to install. simply pull off stock or wetsump pan, and apply silicone and bolt on dry sump pan, and your done. the gear on the scavenge
pump meshes with the stock oil pump gear with nothing for you to worry about. the first one just completed dyno testing and is on its way to jake latham, West
race cars just placed a quantity order that began machining today and are already sold. West will be the east coast dealer and dealer for all West customers.
the pricing for this system will be set at $1900, but remember, no electric water pump to buy or deal with, and no oil lines between pump and pan, making it
even cheaper then the nova system and better performing due to the gerotor pump design. this system is clean and well thought out. inlet can be on left or
right, with other side blocked off, and scavenge out is on front right corner giving it a straight shot to the cooler reducing line length by 3 feet. the real
key here, is it is dual scavenge so it properly scavenges the motor maximizing power gains and eliminating pressure dips, and the weight of this dry sump
system reduces the weight gain associated with dry sump.
contact Jesse Brittsan @ BRD urbanimports02@yahoo.com 503-810-9755 or Eric Vasian @ West Race Cars eric@westracecars.com 678-389-9326 
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924RACR |
#12 | |||
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Registered User
Posts: 42 08/17/09 10:06:45 |
Nice work... looks like the same installed height (about 1"?) as the previous revision??
Vaughan Scott
vaughan@vaughanscott.com www.vaughanscott.com '90 Euroswift -> DSR conversion underway... ITB 924 - wife has stolen and is now racing it! |
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bob wheless |
#13 | |||
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Registered User
Posts: 119 08/17/09 10:54:29 |
Stupid question, but I will ask anyway,,,,, do you need a dry sump tank [ me thinks yes] to go with this system? Boy is this a nice looking
setup,,,,clean,,,,simple,,,,,congraduations,,,,bob
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urbanimports |
#14 | |||
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Registered User
Posts: 43 08/17/09 12:15:32 |
installed height is 1.5", basically the same as the current wetsump setup everyone is running, which i believe measures slightly deeper then that. i will
still offer the earlier setup for those that want the lower profile. for most people out there that are currently running the wetsump system, especially those
with production cars like stohr, west, pheonix, amac, etc that have motor mounts built around the wetsump depth, this system will replace the wetsump with no
mods required. in the case of a stohr, you cant lower the mounts, as the rear frame rail and spar side plates dictate its height. for any others that wish to
build custom mounts to lower there engine, the low profile system can give them the advantage they are after. the old system is also good for home builders
that know they want to go drysump from the get go, and want the engine as low as possible. as far as requiring a tank, yes it still requires a dry sump tank.
the prefered routing of this system is scavenge out is on the front of the pan just below and to drivers right of the oil filter, that goes to the bottom of
the oil cooler(which is on drivers right on most cars) via a -10 line(about 3' shorter then systems running scav pump in place of water pump) then out of
the top of the cooler to the top of the tank. then a -12 line from the bottom of the tank to the back corner of the pan. this system has a crossover bore, so
you can put the -12 inlet on either right or left depending on which side you want your tank, then you simply cap the other side(all fittings and caps
included) the first picture shows the optional 90 degree -12 inlet fitting (adds $30 to total cost) which allows a tighter fit to miss chassis rails where need
be. while it adds cost, it reduces cost by allowing a straight fitting on the hose instead of a 45,60, or 90 which costs $20-$30 more anyway.
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KMA4444 |
#15 | |||
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Registered User
Posts: 450 08/17/09 22:04:48 |
Nicest looking unit I've seen, TONS better than the one on our customer car with it's plumbing nightmare. Neat packaging and no aggravating electric
water pump.
Cool. |
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Tom Bootz |
Am I missing something? | #16 | ||
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Registered User
Posts: 130 08/18/09 10:17:41 |
After the oil goes thru the pressure pump it goes to the filter, and if the internal bleed hole is plugged, it leaves the block out the right hand side,
goes to a cooler, which then returns thru the left side inlet on the block. So with this system is it envisioned that this plumbing arrangement will stay and
the scavenged oil cooler is an addtional cooler? Or would we plumb the right side to the left side and skip the cooler for the pressurized oil?
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LDOGGYDIZZLE |
#17 | |||
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Registered User
Posts: 290 08/18/09 12:14:12 |
Tom, you could do 2 things:
1) Where you usually plug that little hole, you could drill it out, open it up completely and then just attach block off plates to both sides of the block (BEST). OR 2) Leave the plug (or those who never plug the little hole) and have a line connecting one side to the other externally (easiest).
Lawrence Loshak
#02 DSR Stohr WF1 Loshakracing.com R.I.P. Tom Thrash, a true Champion |
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Jake Latham |
#18 | |||
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Registered User
Posts: 617 08/18/09 12:57:25 |
As far as effort, I dropped my wet sump pan off, and bolted this guy up in about 5 minutes last night under the car - really slick. Finishing up the install
this evening (finalizing lines to and from the tank), and should have some testing on Weds.
Hardest part about the whole install is going to be making the little loop line (that Lawrence refers to) to join the -8 lines that formerly went to the oil cooler. Weight of my system, (oil tank, pan, and assuming extra 2 quarts of oil I'll now carry) was 17#. -Jake |
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SR3 WTB |
#19 | |||
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Registered User
Posts: 100 08/18/09 20:47:52 |
Jake Latham wrote:Good stuff Jake! Looking forward to your continued feedback. Hey, now that you seemingly have the OP thing figured out, I hope you don't pull a Chuck and start snapping valves...  .
Best of luck my friend!
Life isn't about waiting for the storm to pass...but about learning to
"Dance" in the rain; "winners never quit and quitters never win!" GBA!
 STOHR 01D, chassis #23
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Add Reply
- 2009 Races
- General Discussion
- IMSA Lites
- Vintage: H Modified
- Getting Started
- Driving Techniques
- Aerodynamics
- Car Building
- Engine, Carburation, EFI, Oiling
- Rules Discussion
- Suspension, Tires, Wheels
- Other Technical Discussion
- For Sale: Cars
- For Sale: Engines & engine parts
- For Sale: Misc. Parts, Trailers, . . .
- Wanted: Cars & Parts
- Links, HOW TOs?, Reference info.
- Sold Items, (kept for reference)
- 2008 Races
- 2007 Races
- 2006 Races
- 2005 Races
- 2000 - 2004 Race Results (read only)
- Weight Debate
